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Few things can be as frustrating as picture problems. You get your system all ready to go, flip the switch, and WHAM! One or more channels look terrible. The good news is that the majority of video problems can be traced to just a few causes. Most problems are comprised of the following:

Snow

Horizontal bars rolling though the picture

Vertical bars rolling through the picture

Ghosting

Herringbone pattern (diagonal lines through picture)

Lower channels look fine, upper channels are not

These six are the main symptoms youll find when seeing video problems. Thankfully, most are fairly easy to fix.

Snow -

Snow is caused by inadequate signal strength at the tuner. Its usually caused by:

1Splitting the signal too many times.

2A weak signal from the antenna or cable company

3A very long cable run

If the signal is snowy at all your tvs, especially if you have more than 4 tvs, you probably need an RF amplifier. Check the strength at the demark (service entrance). If it is fine there, add an amplifier before the splitter. Make sure to use a quality unit with good bandwidth (out to at least 1000MHz). If you have digital cable or a cable modem, get an amplifier with a bidirectional return path to allow for communication back to the cable company. If the picture looks bad at the demark, contact the cable company.

If it is bad at only one TV, you may have a bad cable between the splitter and the TV or a very long run of cable. You can amplify just that run.

Horizontal Rolling Bars

Horizontal rolling bars are caused by DC power getting into the cable system. To fix it, disconnect the TV from all other components in the system. If the bars disappear, add the other components back in until the bars return. When you find the offending component, use a DC blocker to eliminate the DC power path to the system.

Vertical Rolling Bars

Vertical rolling bars are caused by AC power getting on the cable line. The best fix for this is to use a ground breaker. A ground breaker eliminates the electrical connection between the TV and the cable system. A ground breaker is also the main fix for a hum on your audio systems speakers.

Ghosting

Ghosting is caused by the tuner receiving identical signals at slightly different times. It can be caused by your TV receiving a local station broadcasting over the air and via the cable system at the same time. Make sure you are using good quality RG-6 coax cable and good compression fittings. Replace any low quality cable splitters or combiners with high quality units. Make sure they are tight also. This will also cure another cause of ghosting, signal reflection inside a poor cable.

Ghosting can also be caused by multi-path interference on an antenna system. This is especially true in an urban environment with lots of hills and tall buildings. To combat this, use a very directional antenna aimed directly at the desired station.

Herringbone Pattern

A herringbone pattern is caused by radio frequency interference from other stations transmitting on the same channel or adjacent channels, powerful radio signals, computers, etc. Another common cause is being equidistant from two transmitters operating on the same channel.

In short, this can be caused by just about any sort of RF radiation at the correct frequency. Really great shielding found on high quality cables helps to combat this. If you are getting this interference while modulating an A/V source on a certain channel, try switching to a different channel.

Poor Upper Channel Reception

Poor Upper Channel Reception is caused by poor signal strength on the upper channels. Use an amplifier with a tilt compensator that allows adjustment of the upper channels relative to the lower channels. This will prevent overdriving the lower channels while providing the upper channels with enough gain. Also, check to see if all components in the RF system are rated to at least 1GHz and RG-6 or RG-6Quad shield cable is being used throughout.

Bio: Steve Faber has almost 15 years in the custom installation industry. He is a CEDIA certified designer and Installer 2 with certifications from both the ISF and THX. His experience spans many facets of the industry, from the trenches as an installer and control systems programmer, and system designer, to a business unit director for a specialty importer of high end audio video equipment, a sales rep for a large, regional consumer electronics distributor, and principal of a $1.5M+ custom installation firm. He currently is senior sales engineer for digital Cinema Design in Redmond, WA. For more on how to get the best video in your home or theater see Home Theater Video

Not to long ago my water heater went out. Just like that you think all is well then whamo a small leak appears. I was faced with a decision, fix it myself or call the plumber. Well after getting several estimates ranging from $1500 to $2500, I decided to do it myself.

It's really not that to hard to repair plumbing. In this article I will give you some pointers to help aid you in this endeavor. And hopefully spare you from the high cost of paying for a plumber. Nothing against plumbers but this project is doable.

steps it will take:

1) As soon as you realize that the old water heater has to go start draining it. It can take several hours to drain. Remember to turn off the main water valve and open up all of the faucets to eliminate any pressure. if it's a gas unit make sure that you turn off the main gas line in the house and if it is electric turn off the breaker. Think safety first.

2) Try and purchase the same unit. This will prevent you from adding pipe and new valves.

3) Size up the job and disconnect the tank from the water pipes, gas line or the electrical connection. If it's gas you will need to disconnect the flue as well. Save all parts in order to match them up when you purchase your supplies.

4) You will need to have on hand plumbers tape, small gas torch, solder, flux, plumbing sandpaper, pipe cutter, gas tape (to seal gas line) and maybe some pipe glue. Ask the sales person at the hardware store for a more defined list.

Once you have disconnected the tank remove it from your work space. Do a thorough measurement of the remaining pipe for reference when you go to the hardware store. I will be honest with you, you might need to make a few trips back to the store. Once you get the new tank, slide it into place to line up the plumbing.

If you bought the same unit it should line right up, if you were unable, you will need to remove or add length to the existing piping. This may require you to splice together copper with plastic, don't let this scare you the hardware store will have all of the necessary parts.

If you need to add copper pipe make sure that you clean the old and new pipe by using sandpaper, inside and out. If it's not clean the solder will not flow into the joint. Another tip is to not over wrap the mail threaded pipe with tape, this can cause a leak. Twice around should be enough. Also, don't over tighten it.

This may sound complicated but trust me, if I can do it, anyone can. Just take it slow, ask questions from the hardware specialist and go online for more instructions. One last item, if you have a gas unit your county or city may require an inspection. The inspector will verify that the gas connection is right and that the angle of the flue is right. Don't take a chance with gas, make the call to have someone come out and inspect your work.

Your should be able to complete this job for $500 or so and the tools and supplies will be available for when your dishwasher goes out. Good luck.

Dennis Watson - Just helping others succeed.

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